Total pages in book: 90
Estimated words: 83368 (not accurate)
Estimated Reading Time in minutes: 417(@200wpm)___ 333(@250wpm)___ 278(@300wpm)
Estimated words: 83368 (not accurate)
Estimated Reading Time in minutes: 417(@200wpm)___ 333(@250wpm)___ 278(@300wpm)
He said, “That’s funny. When I watched those videos of you, even when I watched you the other day coming in to the beach or out there surfing, I thought to myself, ‘My goodness, she’s dancing with the waves.’”
She laughed out loud, delighted with him. “That’s how it feels when I’m out there. But the sea is an unpredictable partner, and sometimes it trips you up.”
“Right.”
There was a short pause. “But you were right about having to be fearless. I guess I had natural talent, just something I was born with and that my dad nurtured, and then combine that with years of training, and you’re almost there. But if I hadn’t been fearless? Well, I never would have entered the world of championship surfing.”
There was another pause while the waiter delivered their meals. As he set down their plates, she felt that Herschel was as eager to keep the conversation going as she was. She picked up her fork and then set it down again. “It was fun while it lasted. Now that you’ve seen the video, you know all about the accident that broke my back and ended my career.”
“I saw what happened, yes. But I don’t know how it made you feel. Not just physically, but emotionally.”
She swallowed. “At first, they weren’t sure I’d ever walk again.” She paused, allowing herself only a few seconds to look back at those dark, dark days. “But somehow I knew I would. Even as I was lying in bed in the hospital in agony, I knew deep down I’d surf again. Maybe not at the pro level, but I would figure it out. There are people out there who surf on one leg, and I worked as hard as anybody’s ever worked in rehab, and I got there. I walked again.
“Luckily, I had my own house here in Carmel and the greatest family ever. Everybody pulled together to help me and cheer me up when I was feeling down, and they made sure I had everything I needed and got to all my appointments. So I became stronger and stronger, and I got my confidence back. One day, I told the doctor I was ready to try surfing, and she said, ‘No, you’re not.’ But I knew my body, and I knew I could do it. Besides, I was almost at the breaking point of frustration.”
She paused and ate a mouthful of succulent fish, toying with what she was going to say next. “I’ve never even told my family this, but one day I just snuck out and went to a beach in Monterey where nobody knew me.”
“Were you at all nervous?”
“More than you can imagine.”
He shook his head. “Oh, I can imagine.”
“But when I saw the ocean up close again, I realized just how much I had missed her. It wasn’t painful at all. It was like seeing an old friend again after coming home from a long trip. And without thinking about it, I got out there, and I surfed. It wasn’t pretty, it didn’t last long, and my back hurt like hell afterward, but I did it. From that point on, I got my life back.”
He looked fascinated, riveted almost. “Good for you,” he said. “I’m still struggling with that.”
She put her hand on his. It felt like the most natural thing in the world. “You’ll get there.”
He turned his hand and clasped hers. There was strength and steadiness in that grip. He said, “Yes, I will.” And then, as if embarrassed by his admission, he withdrew his hand and began to eat.
She followed his lead, but then decided not to let the subject drop. “You know, honestly, when the doctors told me I’d never surf again professionally, I thought my world had ended. It took a long time for me to get over that and see a way forward without surf competitions being my whole life anymore.”
He put down his fork and then leaned closer to her across the table. “I always thought I was okay with dying. Obviously, space missions are as safe as they can be, but I do a dangerous job. But when I got sucked down into the ocean, it was like the sea was deliberately trying to kill me, and I was helpless.” He swallowed. “Maybe that was the worst—being so helpless. Even after I was rescued, that’s what the nightmares were about—the ocean sucking me under.” He closed his eyes for a moment and then opened them. They were full of emotion. “I’ve never admitted these things to anyone else.”
She said, “Only you know about that illicit surfing trip. I’ve never told a single soul.”
“I’m honored by your confidence, and I’ll keep it to myself.”
“And I’ll keep yours.” After a pause, she said, “Maybe you don’t have to go in the water quite yet. Maybe you can give yourself some more breathing room.”